Diary of a Thai football season

2023/24 Krabi FC v Samut Prakan

It's a long journey south to take on The Andaman Eagles of Krabi


(Wanderley has arrived! Photo credit: Official Samut Prakan Facebook page)

Firstly, the big news

Samut Prakan has a new coach (manager) in the hot seat. The club announced on Wednesday 13th December the appointment of Brazilian coach Wanderley Machado Da Silva Junior (hopefully fans can call him 'Wandy' or something). Mr Wanderley has a wealth of experience managing clubs in SE Asia, and in Thai football, has taken Lamphun to promotion from T2 and also had spells at Chiang Rai United and Nakhonsi United. Welcome to Samut Prakan!  

(Photo credit: Official Samut Prakan Facebook page)

Also arrived at the club is Hans, the assistant manager. Hans is someone I'd like the chance to chat to because we have a Birmingham connection. As a goalkeeper, Hans had a spell at Aston Villa a number of years ago and played alongside David James, Dion Dublin and the magnificent David Ginola.

(Now here's a proper chance to combine travel with football)

So it's Krabi away. You're looking forward to this one?

Absolutely, and for several reasons. Firstly, I never got to see this fixture last season (the first time the two clubs had met) because I was back in England visiting family at the time. Just for the record, it was a match played in the most appalling conditions and ended in a 1-1 draw.

Secondly, Krabi is one of Thailand's most popular and most picturesque tourist destinations. It will be probably be a bit crowded on or near the most well-known beaches, but it's still far too good a travel opportunity to miss.

Finally, we're probably lucky to have Krabi FC in the Thai league at all. There was a lot of talk of them going out of business for financial reasons before the start of the season, but they somehow pulled through. However, still hampered by lack of funds and under threat of relegation, who knows how long the club will continue. Could this be the last chance to catch a game at the Krabi Provincial Stadium?

How are Krabi doing this season?

They are currently one from bottom in T2, and already looking like serious relegation candidates with just one win and 7 points from 15 games. That solitary win came away at Kasetsart FC in late November so they are yet to taste victory in 9 home games. Please don't let Samut Prakan be the first scalp.

Journey and digs

The flight from Bangkok Don Muang to the surprisingly modern-looking Krabi Airport took just over an hour and Tun and I joked about her being possibly the only Thai passenger on board. It certainly felt that way such is Krabi's lure as a popular tourist destination for foreigners. 

For accommodation, Tun had scoured Facebook and found a nice family-run, three-star hotel called the Dee Andaman, located on the edge of Krabi town. It's fair to say the hotel had seen better days and the general cleanliness left something to be desired, but at a thousand baht a night, which included a decent breakfast, we weren't complaining. Our hire car for around 800 baht a day was an even better deal.     

This was quite an unusual football trip inasmuch as we had a good few days to kill before the game on the Sunday night, so here are some of the photo highlights of Tuesday to Sunday.

Strolling along the riverbank on our first afternoon in town, we were approached by a boat owner who offered to show us a few local attractions, so we took him up on it. Late afternoon, when temperatures have cooled, is a fine time to get out on the water.

We moored for half an hour at Khao Khamapnam, a network of limestone caves once inhabited by stone age man, and more recently, according to Krabi myth and folklore, the site of a swordfight between two lovers squabbling over the same fair damsel. It was well worth a look. 

Day two was a beach and boats day as we started with a walk around Ao Nopparat (one of the quieter beach resorts along the Krabi coast) and a couple of mango smoothies, before heading to the popular Railay Beach by long-tailed boat (a journey of some 20 minutes) There's little doubting Railay's scenic beauty but my word, it was busy. The crowded sandy beaches reminded me of Spanish resorts in their eighties heyday, but then again, this is high season in Thailand. 

On Thursday we made a second attempt at Ao Nang, by far and away Krabi's busiest and most commercial beach resort. We had ventured there the day before but couldn't find a single parking space near the seafront. So this time we parked well outside town and got a taxi in. However, we quickly tired of Ao Nang's main strip, consisting largely of tour operators, cannabis cafes and tailors shops, and looked for something else to do. 

The Krabi Monkey Trail is a 20-minute coastal walk upxp and down rickety sets of wooden stairs and connects Ao Nang Beach to the much quieter Pai Plong. What monkeys inhabit the area are only found in small groups near the entrance and are fairly gentle and agreeable compared to their counterparts in other Thai provinces. At Pai Plong Beach, there are several five-star hotels that offer a decent lunch menu at prices that won't break the bank. 

On Friday (day four) we decided to get away from the maddening crowd and drive to a much quieter stretch of coast and the lovely Tub Khaek Beach. It's an area dominated by luxury hotels and resorts, each with their own stretch of private sands, but even if you aren't a guest, they don't mind you lounging around on their bean bags as long as you buy an expensive drink.  

On the drive back to Krabi Town, we found a great little restaurant called The Baan Tha Ley Cafe, with one of the most interesting drink selections I've ever seen (you can see the peanut butter coffee and strawberry bubble gum shake in the above photo) and the chicken massuman was the proper southern Thai version and not the milky yellow monstrosity that gets passed off for massuman curry in Bangkok. Terrific little eaterie!  

Saturday arrived and we were starting to feel a little jaded (travel in Thailand can really take it out of you) so we took things at a very genteel pace. We did a short walk through a mangrove forest, climbed an observation tower down by the river, and passed a sweaty half hour in Krabi's spacious but fairly ordinary public park. Much of the morning and afternoon was spent killing time in a couple of coffee shops but we finished the day down by one of the main piers, where there was some fine military transport on show.  

It's match day (at last!)

We had virtually a whole day to fill before the match started at 7pm and things didn't start too well when we found out the Krabi Museum was closed on Sundays, completely scuppering our final day plans. Fortunately, Khun Od, the Samut Prakan fan club leader, saved the day by calling us and inviting us to join the rest of the travelling Prakan fans for a spot of kayaking on the river. And very enjoyable it was too! 

Let's get to the match itself. What were your thoughts on the Krabi Provincial Stadium?

I was pleasantly surprised. It was a bit smarter and a lot 'homelier' than it looks on the TV, although it clearly needs money spent on it. 

When Tun and I arrived at the stadium, even though there were only 90 minutes to kick off, we were able to walk a lap of the running track and reel off some photos. We got chatting to a couple of the Krabi FC ground staff and they told us that next season, the club apparently has plans to move to a stadium in the Ao Nang area. Wouldn't that be great if they could publicize league games and attract a few foreign faces to take in a Thai match while they're here on holiday!

As kick off got closer, the Samut Prakan faithful started to arrive until our posse eventually numbered around 15. One Samut Prakan exile had made his way up from Phuket, a couple of female fans based in Surat Thani had done the two-hour journey. You just never know who's going to turn up in the away end from one match to another.

No away fan had to put a hand in their pocket for a match ticket either, as the club once again supplied us with a wad of freebies. It's always a much-appreciated gesture.

And we're off and running! Samut Prakan probably shade the early stages of the contest. The lively Fernando creates a half chance on seven minutes but the Prakan number 9 can't quite connect, a minute later Sho Shimoji sidefoots home but is denied by the offside flag. On the quarter hour mark, Krabi should have taken the lead, a right wing centre finding the head of Aubpathum but he puts a golden opportunity wide. As has been Samut Prakan's downfall a number of times this season, it's straightforward crosses into the box that are causing problems. The home side aren't much cop at defending crosses either it seems as Fernando heads just wide of the post from an Arnont delivery.  

Samut Prakan are forced into a substitution on the half hour as Apichok makes way for Ratchata, no doubt still buzzing from his wonderful goal against Lampang. The young Prakan number 24 is soon involved in the action as the away side step it up a gear. Krabi fail to clear a long range throw-in and Tanat seizes on the loose ball but his shot is off target.

An overhead kick from Krabi centre forward Keith Nah sails just over the crossbar but it provides a rare moment of excitement for Krabi's modest home support. Ominous I know, but I check records and the last two league games at the Krabi FC Stadium have ended in goalless draws. Are the 270 in attendance going to witness yet another stalemate or could one goal nick it?

Half-time: Krabi FC 0 Samut Prakan 0

(Welcoming the new gaffer!)

The second period takes a long time to get going or produce anything of note to rouse the crowd, but the contest awakens from its slumber with a 50-50 challenge midway through the half that sees players and staff from both sides squaring up to each other on the touchline. It's another 'Thai football first' for me as the gentleman on the stadium's p.a system appeals for everyone to calm down. I've watched the replay back a number of times and really can't see what the Krabi management were getting so angry about. 

The incident and ensuing lengthy stoppage seem to put a bit more fire in Samut Prakan's belly. Sangjin Lee, a second half substitution, goes on a run from the half-way line and flashes a shot across the penalty area. With just ten minutes left on the clock comes the moment that 15 Samut Prakan fans have been waiting for as Sangjin Lee does well to feed Fernando and the Brazilian is chopped down in the box for a stonewall penalty. After the usual shithousery, with several Krabi players trying to get into the Brazilian striker's head, Fernando makes it nine goals for the season with a panenka spot-kick. Now how's that for confidence? It's a late winner to send us all home happy. The Samut Prakan fans really do love this guy!

Full-time: Krabi FC 0 Samut Prakan 1 

Overall thoughts?

That was the very definition of a hard fought away win, and a priceless three points as we set our sights once again on a top six finish. I don't think there was that much to choose between the two sides on the night; despite the home side's lowly league position, you're always in for a tough game at the Krabi Provincial Stadium. This is a club fighting for its second division survival and probably even its Thai league existence.

At the end of the match, when the Samut Prakan players and staff came over to celebrate with the fans, I had the honour of addressing and welcoming our new manager Wanderley to the club. It made yet another enjoyable football trip even more memorable.

(Photo credit: Official Samut Prakan Facebook page)

Who's up next?

It's a task of Herculean proportions as we make the short trip to Premier League table-toppers Bangkok United for an FA Cup tie on Wednesday 20th December.

Samut Prakan fixtures 2023/2024   




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