Every new arrival wants to know if they can survive or live well in Thailand on X thousand baht a month?
It's a difficult question because each person has different needs. However, the following surveys and figures are from teachers actually working here! How much do they earn and what do they spend their money on?. And after each case study, I've added comments of my own.
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John
Working in Bangkok
Monthly Earnings 105,000 baht
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I work at a private school in Bangkok (with 400 students) My basic salary is 95,000 and I can earn another 10,000 from private students.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
A large portion of my paycheck goes to paying off school loans and credit cards, but I can still save about 30,000 baht per month.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
The school provides free housing for their teachers. My wife, daughter and I live in a four-room town house.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
We usually spend 1,000 baht a month on gas for the car, plus maybe around 300 baht for taxis here and there.
Utility bills
Utilities and maintenance are covered by the school.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
We eat out maybe every other night, so plus groceries maybe 3,000 per month
Nightlife and drinking
The nightlife scene doesn't really appeal to me. I'll go out with friends and drop maybe 200 baht a couple of nights a month.
Books, computers
Internet and phone plans come out to around 1,000 per month.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
My family and I live very comfortably. There isn't much that we have to worry about. I sometimes get the itch to move to a "better" school with more prestige and name recognition, but I always come back to the conclusion that I'm very happy where I am.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
It has to be the food. Thai food is amazing, and Bangkok has a wide selection of international cuisine when you want something different.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
I've built up my salary working at the same school for nearly a decade. I've lived on 30,000 per month when I was single and didn't have any problems. I'd say in the 30,000 to 40,000 range is a fine place to start for Bangkok living, if you don't mind staying away from the expensive restaurants and nightlife most of the time.
Phil's analysis and comment
Thank you John. That's a fine package you've got there sir! I can't understand why you would do the private students though when 95K plus free housing and utilities is a great deal already.
Was there some mistake with the monthly food spend John? 3,000 baht seems awfully low for a family of three unless you've found some ridiculously cheap Thai places. Even then that's only 250 baht a week each. That can't be right? LOL
James
Working in Mae Sai (Chiang Rai Province)
Monthly Earnings 28,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I earn 28,000 from my job at a private school. I have also in the past earned up to 2,500 baht a month from private tutoring, but don't do that all the time.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
14,000. It is easy to live cheap in the North. I have lived months on less than 12,000 before when I needed to save.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
My girlfriend and I pay 3,500 for a small one-room apartment in an apartment block with a few other farang teachers. We don't have a kitchen, but we have set up a camping stove in our little covered outside area which has a sink. We mostly need to go out to eat but that's cheaper anyway. Wi-fi is included.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
We rent a motorbike from our landlord for 2,000 baht a month and put in about 250 baht of petrol in each month. That is good for all our day to day transport needs. We go to Chiang Rai town once every two weeks or so which is 46 baht each way on the minibus. We could ride the bike for less but it isn't the nicest journey, especially in the rain. Might spend 100 baht on taxis while we are there. Going to Chiang Mai costs about 600 baht return, but we only do that once every 2 months or so.
Utility bills
Utility bills for water and electricity range from 300 baht to 1200 baht a month for the two of us depending on air con usage. The average is about 600 baht a month with air con every day for a couple of hours.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
Food can be very cheap if you eat out locally (street food 20-40 baht / restaurants 35-60). A few restaurants that serve Western style food (about 100 baht for a burger) If we do cook something then it is usually to cook in a larger group of teachers. Including 7/11 snacks I pay on average 100-250B a day for food and drink if I'm at home in Mai Sai.
Nightlife and drinking
There isn't much night life in Mae Sai, but I don't mind that too much. If I do go out for a beer then a large Leo will probably be 70 or 80 baht. Sitting with others teachers from the school having a beer at the apartments cost 55 baht a beer from 7/11. I go out in Chiang Rai once every 3 or 4 weeks with teachers who live there, and one night will cost me about 600 baht
Books, computers
I don't spend any money on this really. There is a nice second hand trade in book shop in Chiang Rai where I have exchanged books and spent a maximum of 150 baht over the year.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
Comfortable and happy while saving. We could live more extravagantly if we wished, but instead we save our money to spend on travel during our holidays.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Rent and eating out are very cheap.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
If you did not want to save any money but still wanted to ensure you always had funds for visa extensions and unexpected costs, while occasionally treating yourself to western comforts or a night out, 20,000 should be enough, but 25,000 would be more comfortable.
Phil's analysis and comment
James lives in a one-room apartment with his Thai partner. They are usually referred to as studio apartments and in England we often give them the rather unglamorous title of 'bedsits'. You really need to get along with someone if two of you are going to share such a confined space - or work different shifts perhaps.
I'm sure James is a fine fellow but his lifestyle is just not for me, despite the fact that he lives and works in one of the most beautiful areas of Thailand. However, some may consider sitting around on the floor cross-legged and sipping large Leos with a bunch of other teachers part of the exotic adventure. I don't know.
When I planned the questions for these cost of living surveys many years ago, I wasn't interested in a teacher's age. Perhaps I felt it was too much of an intrusion. However, this is one of those surveys where I would love to know how old the writer is. If James was in his early to mid twenties, then his lifestyle is one I can imagine someone 'tolerating' for several years but not so much for a guy perhaps in his forties or older.
Everything that James mentions above I have done and experienced myself - the small, shared studio apartment, the living on about 400 baht a day, the diet of cheap streetfood meals, the occasional Western splurge and the saving up for a weekend away. In your twenties you're just grateful to be living in Thailand. But I think it's natural to seek out a better standard of living and a few more creature comforts as you get older.
Sarah
Working in Chiang Mai
Monthly Earnings 33,000 - 59,000 baht a month
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I earn 28,000 - 34,000 via my hourly contract with the university + flexible, paid office hours) Plus 5,000 - 25,000 baht a month from private local gigs: professional editing, curriculum/program design and consultation, and NES teacher recruitment)
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
If I were choosing to save, I could realistically save 20,000 baht out of just my university paycheck (considering that it is a month I do not have any extra free-lance projects) - but all of my "gain" is being invested into opening the Chiang Mai Community House - a dream project of mine to provide FREE arts and education programs for the local community.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I pay 5,500 for a gorgeous two-floor traditional house with a terrace on each end of the upstairs, privately tucked within a wraparound, well-cared for garden, and naturally shaded by a variety of trees. (I only pay 2,750 for rent, as I share all my living expenses with my husband)
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
600 baht, which includes fuel for motorbike, commute to work. I have a 32 kilometre round-trip (4 days per week) plus a dozen or less kilometres for monthly errands
Utility bills
This is the most complex category for me. Home is 1500 baht (electricity, water, wifi) Home improvements = 50,000฿ (I bought a new air conditioner, refrigerator, windows, and had some remodeling done to suit my preferences upon moving in this house in March 2016.) Community house expenses are rent: 8,000 baht. Utilities: 2,000 baht. Remodeling: 24,000 baht (and still more to come, it's a work in progress);
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
My husband and I shop at our local street market and cook at home. He pays for our dining expenses but being the farang, I spend about 1,500 baht on Western treats and eating out Western-style with friends. I know where the best 5 baht Thai teas are and where to get the best somtam and khao soi for 25 baht. My trees are overflowing with lemons, mangoes, papaya, passion fruit, and bananas - and often my Kuhn Mae will bring some great cooked meals over so I'd say I'm quite lucky.
Nightlife and drinking
Since my community house is my "baby" and I tend to work on several private contracts simultaneously, I do not partake in the night life. I made sure to live it up in Bangkok last year, while I lived there, but now as I enter my 30's and am married, my priorities have shifted and I get a lot more satisfaction out of realizing my dreams and serving the community. I even gave up smoking and drinking completely in order to make this transition a reality.
Books, computers
Books I happily receive for free from colleagues that are outbound. Computer was as a birthday present to myself I bought a new iPad Air 64gb for 24k; and I pay 53 baht/month for my website.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
See Phil's comment section below.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Food, massage, beauty treatments, sunshine, handicrafts, art, education, patience, nature and housing.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
In my opinion, to survive - nothing other than making genuine connections with the locals. Seriously - TIT. But for those just starting out, you can survive on 15k-20k anywhere (for better or worse - it's up to you; and there are so many ways to earn more when you desire to make a sacrifice of your time)
Phil's analysis and comment
Sarah's response to the 'summarize your standard of living' question was quite lengthy and so wouldn't fit into the field. This was her answer,
My standard of living is incredible. I have happily adopted a more frugal and simple lifestyle due to cost of living being incomparable to the USA.
I do share my expenses with my husband, which maximizes my potential standard of living. The first 10 months in Thailand I lived in Bangkok and earned more (35K salary + 14k extra lessons) and I enjoyed trips to Koh Samui, Koh Tao, Koh Samed, Koh Phangan, plus the holiday to Chiang Mai which convinced me I'd found HOME.
I worked really hard as a brand new teacher and left Bangkok with a reputation that has now resulted in ample private contracts directly with private schools, clubs, colleges, and now connecting me to the locals in my neighborhood who are all helping to give life to the Chiang Mai Community House.
My health and happiness has radically improved the more I focus on what is essential to me, and redirect extra finances into supporting the sustenance of just that. This does mean that I cannot predict when my visit back home will be, but the flip side is that my family and friends back home are so inspired by what I'm working on that they are flying out here to visit. So it's really win-win all around.
Bear
Working in Bangkok
Monthly Earnings 36,000 - 46,000 baht a month
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I have been working for a private charity school for the last six years. Prior to that I worked in government schools and language centres. I earn 36,000 nett from my school and between 8-10,000 from private or extra classes on weekends or at school.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
My wife has a part time catering business/venture which brings in anything from 5,000 to 25,000 a month. We have an eight year daughter who goes to a private school. We 'usually' save the money from my private classes and her cooking. I guess about 15,000 a month.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
We live in a two-bedroom town house near Minburi and Fashion island. Rent is 3,500 per month. We have been here for six years and the rent has not changed. The house was part furnished, but now it is more than fully furnished. Anybody with children will understand what I mean!
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
For transportation I spend about 60-80 baht a day. I get an air-con bus and then a van for 27 baht. Coming home the same. But sometimes the free bus comes!! If it's raining, I'll get a taxi from Minburi which is about 70 baht.
Utility bills
Our electric is about 2,400 a month. I like to have the air-conditioning on at night. Water is 300 baht.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
My wife has lots of herbs and vegetables in our back yard. As my wife is a chef, we don't eat out much. I get to eat five star food at home! We have a brilliant market five minutes walk away where you can buy fillet steak for 180 baht! Having a family, supermarket shopping is probably the most expensive thing for us. I would say about 8.000 baht in total but we do eat well!
Nightlife and drinking
As regards nightlife I have a family now - so been there, done that! But we have a great relationship with the people in our 'moo baan' and many times we all cook and sit outside. I usually have a couple of beers then go home and have dinner.
Books, computers
I pay 600 baht a month for True wi-fi and cable and I get everything on-line.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
Excellent. I can afford everything I want. But I don't have any family overseas, so I am not worrying about flights and holidays etc. If you have a kitchen and you are not scared of cooking, then you can save a lot of money. Thai street food is fantastic for lunch, but there is nothing better than sitting down with friends and family having a great BBQ and cheap beer!
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Market food - fresh fish and seafood especially. Also taxis and house rent. If you spend the time looking it is easy to get a house or town house for a great price.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
Everybody has different ways of 'surviving'. Some people need 20,000 to go and party every night. Having been here 16 years and not seen any salary increases, I would say about 37-40k to have a comfortable life. Maybe less outside of Bangkok. And that does not mean you have to live like a Thai!!
Phil's analysis and comment
Bear sounds like a real foodie. It must be great to have a Thai wife who's so good in the kitchen and knows where to shop for all those wonderful fresh salads and vegetables at bargain prices.
Rent is 3,500 per month. We have been here for six years and the rent has not changed.
This is interesting because I lived in a house on a moobarn for five years and my rent never increased in that time either. In fact, I can go one better than that. I once worked with a teacher who had lived in Thailand for 20 years - in the same house! And he was still paying the same 5,000 baht a month that he paid when he first arrived in the country. At that time it felt expensive but it was a beautiful house the teacher used to tell me. Twenty years later and 5,000 baht a month had become one of the biggest bargains in Bangkok. The house was worth millions but the owner seemed to have no desire to sell it.
Joseph
Working in Pattaya
Monthly Earnings 33,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I work at a private language school in Pattaya and the hourly rate is 470 baht and a minimum of 33,000 baht a month. If you are a good teacher, you can earn 40K, even 50K during peak months when there are more students.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
Saving more than 5,000 baht on a 33K salary is tough.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I pay 7,500 (+1,000) a month for a nice studio apartment with room service and security. It is situated in Pattaya Klang so ideal for someone without a motorbike/car. For a more spacious apartment in Pattaya you would be looking to pay a minimum of 10,000. Anyone that tells you can get a nice room in Pattaya for 5,000 mark is probably lying.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
About 1,000 baht a month as I like to occasionally take trips to Bangkok / Rayong
Utility bills
Haven't exceeded 1,000 baht a month yet but I tend to use the air-con for just 3 hours a day
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
I spend roughly 350 baht a day on food, however I have gotten sick of Thai food lately so I treat myself to Western food a few times a week and now some days I will spend 500.
Nightlife and drinking
I am really not a huge fan of Pattaya's nightife, so I really only head out once or twice a week for a few drinks with friends. I'd say in total nightlife doesn't cost me more then 4,000 baht a month
Books, computers
Nothing really but other costs would be getting my hair cut, the phone bill and gym membership which usually total around 3,000 a month.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
My standard of living here is comfortable; I can eat out three times a day, live independently and still socialise. This would not be possible in London. I can say however that the myth of "30,000 baht, you'll live like a king in Thailand" is just not true at all, I know expats in other fields of work earning a much higher salary.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Without a doubt bills are the biggest bargain here and of course food.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
In Pattaya, Bangkok, Phuket etc you can survive on 30,000 but to really live comfortably 40,000 is a much more reasonable expectation.
Phil's analysis and comment
There is a big difference between 30K and 40K a month in terms of how it affects your standard of living. Just ask any teacher who has earned both salaries. On 40K a month you can do and afford so much more!
I'm reading between the lines a little but I guess that Joseph is on one of those 'guaranteed salary deals' which are often used by private language centres. You work for an hourly rate of X amount but the employer will guarantee you a minimum salary even if you don't do enough hours. So at least you always know you'll have enough to pay the rent at the end of each month.
As Joseph says, during peak months when there are more students, it's the popular teachers who will get the cream. That's generally how things work at a private language school. Teachers who are seen as good or entertaining or 'have a kind face' will always get more student requests. Unfair system? It's very often the teachers who aren't willing to up their game or change their mindset that get fewer student requests. They're often the guys you hear bitching.
If anyone fancies doing a cost of living survey, I've now put the questions on-line to make it easier and quicker for you. Please spare half an hour if you can.
A number of teachers complete the surveys with just a list of figures. I don't wish to sound ungrateful but that's not really what we're looking for. There needs to be some sort of 'story' behind the figures as it were (it certainly makes the surveys more interesting to read) Many thanks!
Showing 5 Cost of Living surveys out of 426 total
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