Region Guide: Khon Kaen

The Lonely Planet guidebook says......?

The Rough Guide says that Khon Kaen is “geographically at the virtual center of Issan”.  The city is a center for education and health care in the northeast.  The province however has one of the lowest per capita incomes in the country.  There is a large number of students living in and around the city due to the presence of Khon Kaen University, Northeastern University, Rajamongol Technical College, The College of Asian Scholars and many smaller technical schools.

In general, what are the pickings like for an EFL teacher?

There are the usual big players of the language school world represented here - AUA, California Institute, and ECC. - along with several smaller schools.  There is a growing demand for qualified teachers at the language schools, public schools, and private schools.  The people here hold English language education in high regard and spend a lot of their income on education for their kids. Salaries are lower than in Bangkok.  The range is generally between 18,000 at the low end and about 40,000 at the high end with the average for an experienced teacher at about 28,000.  Sometimes housing is included in the package and sometimes a housing allowance of 3000 to 5000 is included above the salary. There is a constant demand for private instruction and I decline at least 4 offers for each one that I accept.  If you are well presented and offer a good program, you can get by on your own.  I did so for 2 years.  There are 3 major secondary schools within the city limits and each of those schools hire native speakers.  The ideal candidate for this area is usually one who is a bit mature, professional looking, and preferably married to a Thai.  Although by no means a requirement, being married to a Thai is viewed as being able to make a commitment and having some understanding of Thai culture.

How far from Bangkok or civilization?

Khon Kaen is located about 450 miles from Bangkok on Highway number 2, about midway between Korat and Nong Khai.  There are 2 bus terminals which are both served by Moi Chit in Bangkok.  Khon Kaen boasts a brand new municipal airport and 4 daily flights between Bangkok and the city.  A VIP bus from Bangkok costs about 260 baht and the one way airfare on Thai Airlines is 1605 baht.  The flight is about 40 minutes long and the VIP bus takes about 5 1/2 hours with a brief stop in Korat.

Is there any entertainment or do you invite friends round for Scrabble?

Entertainment can be a little thin for singles looking to mingle with an ex-pat community.  There are not that many of us here and many of us are married and home with UBC after classes.  There are plenty of bars and karaoke places.  The 3 major discos are jumping every night.  It’s a great and safe environment for an east meets west experience.  There are 3 major hotels downtown: the five star Sofitel, the Charoen Thani Princess and the Kosa each with four stars.  All of the hotels have the appropriate amenities.  The Sofitel is a favorite because of it’s nightly western style buffet and its fitness club.  There are also many lesser known but comfortable and more affordable hotels within walking distance of most destinations.

How much to rent a house or basic apartment?

It is very common for schools and co-workers to assist with finding housing.  One room, furnished, air con apartments are available for between 3500 and 4500 per month.  Unfurnished 3 bedroom townhouses are 3000 to 5000 per month.  There are also more luxurious digs available at 8000 - 25000.

Shopping malls, department stores?

For day to day living needs, there is a BigC, and a Tesco plus many smaller local stores. Robinson’s has a store planned for town also. There is also a huge selection of regional crafts and products at much lower prices than you will see on Sukhumvit.  There are silk vendors all over the downtown area.  In plentiful supply are the locally made traditional and Mutmee silks and cottons, silver jewelry, wood carvings, etc.  Many villages in the province produce their own signature goods such as silk handbags, clay jewelry etc.  The local wet market in the center of the city is one of the biggest in Thailand.  They have a tremendous selection of meats and vegetables and operate 24 hours per day.  Main shopping malls are Fairy Plaza and Oasis which are normally populated by the college crowd.

Internet cafes? (snail-speed Hotmail default page or fatties playing Ragnarok?)

Internet cafes are plentiful in the downtown area and most are filled with kids and games before 10pm.  After that the customers are mostly college students or “Please marry me” spam girls.  Every school that I have been in has an internet connection and it’s pretty much all dial up.  The price is right at the cafes - usually 10 to 15 baht an hour.

Will you be stared at? and what's the likelihood of a good beating?

You will be stared at around the city a little bit and 5 to 10 kilometers outside town the locals might want to touch the hair on your arms(if you resemble a monkey like I do).  But mainly you will be smiled at and treated with courtesy,awe,and delight wherever you go.  The people here are truly happy and honored to have you teach in their city.  For most of us, there is really no chance of being beaten up but I guess for some it’s guaranteed wherever they go.  There are 10 hospitals in the city.

Taxis, buses....or horse and cart?

Local 5 baht buses are great from very early in the morning until about 8:30 in the evening.  After that, the tuk tuks are very reasonable.  I live about 7 km from school and it takes me 15 to 20 minutes in the morning on the bus.  The same ride in a tuk tuk is 50 - 60 baht.

Main advantages of living there?

The main attraction in living here is quality of life.  It’s much more relaxed than Bangkok.  It’s very inexpensive to live here.  It’s easy to establish good relationships with the locals.  It’s very easy to get around.  Just about anything that you can buy in Bangkok, you can get here.  People are extremely polite and friendly.  You are a big fish in a small pond.  Bangkok is a 40 minute plane ride. Most of the tourists are Thai.  You will learn to speak some Thai or Lao. It’s very dry during the dry season and very nice and cool in the evenings during the cool season.  I can get to Don Muang from my house in Khon Kaen faster than many of you who live in Bangkok.  Lots of soundtrack rental shops.

And what are the downsides?

The downside is that very few people speak English (upside?).  Income is unlimited but salaries are small. You have to work hard.  There is nowhere to hide.  Everyone knows you and what you are doing, so be good and do it right.  Nothing works some of the time and some things work none of the time but nothing works all of the time. Bangkok is a 40 minute plane ride.  One English language movie if we’re lucky.

Any local attractions?

The city has a fairly interesting museum and there are some dinosaur sites nearby.  The closest thing to a public park is Beung Kaen Nakorn, a 3km circumference lake with dozens of restaurants, sing song places and karaoke bars around it.  Some grass and lots of joggers and aerobics activity every night.  Food is very cheap and plentiful all over the city, 24 hours a day.  You can’t go 100m without running into 3 or 4 food stalls - all day and all night.  People here love to snack and the food is very hot.  Pizza Company, McDonald’s, and Swenson’s are here for the gastronomically challenged.

Where's the best place to meet other farangs or are they best avoided?

Many of the teachers here know each other and socialize in small groups.  There are 2 or 3 farang bars where the “old timers” hang out.  This area has long been kept a secret by retired British civil servants tending gardens in the countryside and retired Scandinavian seamen tending Heineken nearer the city.